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History of the Fire Hydrant

Mysterious Origins

Do you know who invented the fire hydrant? Neither do we. In fact, no one truly knows who invented the first fire hydrant system. However, we do know that it was invented in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in the early 1800s.

The patent with the name of the true inventor was destroyed, and nobody is exactly sure how. There are stories of fire, floods, and even an argument that caused the destruction of them. On the other hand, we don’t know for sure who was the first to invent them. However, credit for inventing the first fire hydrant system is often given to Frederick Graff, Sr. We do know for a fact that he created the first pillar fire hydrant in 1801. Subsequently, that is the reason why he receives credit for it today.

Frederick Graff was the chief engineer of the Philadelphia Water Works company. If you can believe it, he was still in his twenties when he invented the pillar hydrant system. However, there is no other evidence that he was truly the person who invented the first hydrant system. Unfortunately, the answer to that mystery has been lost to time.

Before The Fire Hydrant

We’ve come a long way in fire safety since the invent of the hydrant system. Prior to hydrants being available, firefighters used buckets of water to extinguish fires. While this might sound laughable now, these bucket brigades were the best system we had. Firefighters stood in a line between the fire and the source of water and passed buckets along, one by one until the fire was extinguished.

As you can imagine, this process was extremely slow, took a lot of manpower, and wasn’t particularly effective. This system is a major reason why fires used to destroy so much more property before the hydrant system was invented.

What Types of Fire Hydrant Systems Are There?

We’ve already discussed that Graff invented the first pillar system, but what exactly does that mean? Well, you might see different types of hydrants all around the world. But there are two basic fire hydrant systems: wet barrel systems and dry barrel systems.

Wet Barrel Systems

“Wet Barrel” fire hydrants have a multitude of advantages. And that is why they are extremely popular where freezing is not an issue. We call it a “wet” barrel system because there is always water flowing and supplied inside of it. So, when a firefighter attaches their fire hose to the valve, they are immediately supplying water to where they need it.

It is also not possible for people to open the valves to cool themselves off on hot summer days. This might seem like an innocent way to have fun. But it can have very troublesome effects when there is an emergency.

Wet barrel hydrants that are constructed well have a life expectancy of over 100 years, which isn’t a phrase you can say about most things. Unfortunately, the earliest hydrants from the 1800s can’t be restored to service because of their lead valves, which can be a health safety hazard.

Dry Barrel System

It’s common knowledge that water expands when it freezes. It’s why our pipes can burst in our homes during the winter. So, have you ever wondered why fire hydrants on the street don’t freeze and burst? There’s water in there, right? Well, not always.

In a dry barrel system, the water stays out of the part of the hydrant we see. It is stored below ground, where the Earth’s temperature is a steady 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If you know anyone who uses geothermal heating in the winter for their home, it is the same concept. While the temperature above ground can fluctuate drastically, the temperature below the Earth’s surface is constant, and freezing is not an issue.

When it is needed for use, firefighters open a valve on top to put their hose in. This opens the drain valve inside of the hydrant and allows water to come through. If the valve on the surface is closed, the drain valve will open and allow water to drain from the barrel, and it closes when all the water has escaped.

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Series67-MM Replacing the Valve

MAIN VALVE INSPECTION
WARNING: For all of the following repair procedures, the hydrant must be isolated or the system depressurized and drained before removing the hydrant components. Failure to do so may cause pressure to be released resulting in severe injury or death.

1. Check direction of opening as marked on the hydrant Weathershield (F2).
2. To Open, turn the Operating Nut (F500), in the opening direction, indicated by an arrow on the Weathershield (F2), until the
Main Valve (F518), hits the stop in the hydrant Base (F519). Do not force the hydrant in the opening direction beyond
full open as indicated by sudden resistance to turning. If water does not flow when the hydrant is open, it is probably
due to a closed valve upstream from the hydrant.
3. Remove the Weathershield (F2), by removing the Weathershield Bolt (F1), using a 5/16″ or 8mm Allen wrench.
(See Fig. 5)
4. Loosen the Thrust Nut Retaining Screw (F59), using a 5/32″ or 4mm Allen wrench. Using the AVK Series 67 hydrant
wrench, remove the Thrust Nut (F76), and Thrust Nut O-ring (F52). (See Fig. 6)
5. Using the AVK Series 67 hydrant wrench, remove the Operating Nut (F500), and Anti Friction Washer (F501).
(See Fig. 7)
6. Using 15/16″ or 24mm wrenches, remove the Nozzle Section Bolts (F506), Washers (F31), and Nuts (F34). Set the
Two Piece Breakable Flange (F505), aside with the hardware. Lift the Nozzle Section (F504), assembly up over the
Upper Stem Rod (F503). Also remove the Flange O-ring (F73). (See Fig. 8)
7. Remove the lower Springpin (F38), and Coupler Pin (F507), from the Lower Stem Rod (F510). Remove the Upper Stem
Rod and Breakable Coupling (F508), from the Lower Stem Rod. Re-install the Coupler Pin and Springpin on to the Lower
Stem Rod. (See Fig. 9 & Fig. 10)
8. Place the AVK Series 67 T-Wrench over the Coupler Pin and remove the Lower Stem Rod/ Main Valve assembly by
turning counter clockwise. (See Fig. 11 & Fig. 12)
9. Once removed, check the Valve Seat O-rings (F7), and Main Valve (F518), for damage. Also verify that there is no
damage to the sealing surface on the Valve Seat Ring (F515).
10. If replacement of the Main Valve (F518), is necessary, refer to the MAIN VALVE REPLACEMENT section in the REPAIR
PROCEDURES section on page 15.
NOTE: When re-installing the Thrust Nut (F76), tighten the Thrust Nut completely, then back it off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Then tighten
the Thrust Nut Retaining Screw (F59), to lock the Thrust Nut in place.
Note: Torque the nozzle section hardware to 60 Ft. Lbs..

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Series 34 In-Depth

Series 34 Post Indicators

Features

AVK SERIES 34 TELESCOPIC POST INDICATORS
• Available for valve sizes 2½” through 24″
• UL approved for valve sizes 4″ through 24″
• FM approved for valve sizes 4″ through 16″
• PVC Lower Barrel standard
• Optional ductile iron Lower Barrel
• Electrostatically applied, fusion bonded epoxy resin provides extended corrosion resistance
• 1 year limited warranty
• Made in the USA

AVK SERIES 34 WALL POST INDICATORS
• Available in three fixed lengths
• Handwheel can be locked to prevent tampering
• Pre-cast, threaded boss is provided for supervisory switch mounting
• 1 year limited warranty
• UL/ULC listed and FM approved

Click the Image below to become Certified on Series 34 Post Indicator